A neat neckband can make a handknit sweater look polished, and a lumpy one can make it look homemade in the wrong way. The difference is almost always in how the stitches were picked up.
This guide shows you how to pick up stitches for a neckband on a pullover or cardigan: where to put your needle, how many stitches to pick up along straight, sloped and curved edges, and how to avoid holes, gaps and a band that flares or pulls in.
What You’ll Need
- A circular needle (16 in for most adult necks) one or two sizes smaller than your sweater body needle
- An extra small needle or crochet hook for picking up, if you like
- Removable locking stitch markers
- Your sweater yarn
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
“Pick Up” vs. “Pick Up and Knit”
Most patterns say “pick up and knit,” which means you create new live stitches along the edge using your working yarn. You’re not just sliding a needle through existing loops. Each new stitch is pulled through the fabric, so it’s anchored to the edge.
Where to Insert Your Needle
Where you pick up depends on what kind of edge you’re working along:
- Bound-off edges (back neck, center front): Insert the needle into the stitch just below the bind-off, going under both legs of the V. Pick up 1 stitch for every bound-off stitch.
- Side edges (rows, like the sloped sides of a V-neck or front neck): Insert the needle one full stitch in from the edge, between the first and second stitches. Don’t pick up in the very edge loop. It looks loose and messy.
- Live stitches on hold: If the back neck or front neck stitches are on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, just knit them directly back onto your needle.
How Many Stitches to Pick Up
Your pattern will usually give the total number. If it doesn’t, or if you’ve changed the neck, use these common ratios for stockinette:
| Edge type | Typical pick-up rate |
|---|---|
| Bound-off stitches | 1 stitch per bound-off stitch |
| Rows along a straight vertical edge | About 3 stitches for every 4 rows |
| Rows along a slope or curve | 2 or 3 stitches for every 3 or 4 rows |
| Stitches on hold | Knit every live stitch |
Why not one per row? Knit stitches are wider than they are tall, so there are more rows than stitches in any given inch. Picking up one stitch per row along a side edge gives you too many stitches, and the band ripples.
These ratios are a starting point. Your gauge, your yarn and the rib you use all play a part.
How to Pick Up Stitches for a Neckband, Step by Step
Step 1: Block or steam the sweater first. Edges lie flatter after blocking, which makes it much easier to see where to pick up.
Step 2: Divide the neckline into sections. With the right side facing you, place locking markers at the shoulder seams or raglan lines, at the start and end of any bound-off section, and in between so each section is about 2 inches long.
Step 3: Work out your numbers. Count how many stitches you need in each section, using your pattern or the ratios above. Write the count beside each section in your notes.
Step 4: Start at a shoulder. Most patterns start at the left shoulder or the back right shoulder. Leave a tail of yarn about 6 inches long.
Step 5: Insert and pull through. Push the tip of your needle from front to back through the fabric at the pick-up spot. Wrap your working yarn around the needle as if to knit, and pull a loop through to the front. That’s one stitch.
Step 6: Keep going, section by section. Pick up the planned number in each section. Spread the stitches evenly. On a 3-in-4 ratio, pick up 3 stitches, skip a row, and repeat.
Step 7: Count before you join. Check your total. Make sure it matches your rib pattern too. A k1, p1 rib needs an even number, and a k2, p2 rib needs a multiple of 4 when worked in the round.
Step 8: Work the band. Place a beginning-of-round marker, join, and work your rib for the length your pattern gives, often about 1 inch.
Step 9: Bind off loosely. A tight bind-off makes the neck hard to get over your head. Use a stretchy bind-off, a needle a size or two larger, or bind off in rib pattern.
Picking Up Around Curves
Curved necklines mix bound-off steps and decreased edges. At each step you’ll see a little “corner” where one bind-off ends and the next starts. Pick up in the stitch just below each corner rather than in the gap itself. If a small gap shows, pick up an extra stitch there and decrease it away on the first round.
For a free photo tutorial on planning and spacing your pick-ups, see Lavisch’s tutorial on picking up stitches to work a neckline. Cocoknits also has a short guide to picking up stitches around a neckline with step photos.
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
- Holes along the pick-up line. You’re picking up too close to the edge, or skipping too many rows in one place. Pick up one full stitch in from the edge and spread skips evenly.
- A wavy, flaring band. Too many stitches. Rip out the band and pick up fewer, or decrease a few evenly on the first round.
- A band that pulls the neckline in. Too few stitches. Pick up again with a few more, especially along curves.
- Uneven sides. The left and right sides got different counts. Use markers and write down your numbers for each section so both sides match.
- Tight bind-off. Bind off again with a larger needle or a stretchy method.
- Visible purl bumps on the outside. Make sure you’re picking up with the right side facing you.
Tips
- Use a needle a size or two smaller than your body needle for the band. It keeps the rib firm and neat.
- If picking up with a needle feels awkward, use a small crochet hook to pull loops through, then slip them onto your knitting needle.
- Try the sweater on after a few rounds of rib. It’s easy to rip back and fix now.
- Pick up in a matching or slightly darker yarn if you’re nervous about gaps showing.
- Weave the starting tail through the first pick-up stitch to close any gap at the join.
FAQ
Do you pick up stitches with the right side or wrong side facing?
With the right side facing, unless your pattern says otherwise. That puts the little pick-up ridge on the inside of the sweater, so the outside looks smooth.
What is the ratio for picking up stitches along rows?
A common starting point in stockinette is about 3 stitches for every 4 rows. Some knitters use 2 for every 3. Your gauge decides the best ratio, so pick up a short section, knit a few rounds, and check that it lies flat.
Can I use a crochet hook to pick up stitches?
Yes. Insert the hook through the fabric, pull a loop through, and slip it onto your knitting needle. Many knitters find it faster and easier on tight edges.
Take your time with the pick-up and the rest of the neckband almost knits itself.