A raglan sweater has four diagonal lines running from the neck down to each underarm. Those lines aren’t seams. They’re made by increases worked in the same spots every other round, and they shape the yoke so it fits over your shoulders.
If you’re about to knit your first top-down sweater, the raglan increase is the one technique you need to get comfortable with. This guide explains how the raglan lines work, shows three common ways to increase, and helps you keep your lines tidy and your count on track.
What You’ll Need
- Circular needles (16 in for the neck, 24–32 in once the yoke grows)
- Worsted weight yarn in a light, solid color for practice
- Ring stitch markers: 4 matching, plus 1 in a different color
- Removable locking markers for counting rounds
- A row counter or a notebook and pencil
- Tapestry needle
How a Raglan Yoke Works
A top-down raglan starts at the neck. After casting on, you split the stitches into four sections with markers:
- Back
- Left sleeve
- Front
- Right sleeve
The four markers sit where the “seams” would be. On each increase round, you add one stitch before each marker and one stitch after it. That’s 2 stitches per marker, times 4 markers, for 8 stitches added each increase round.
Usually you work an increase round followed by a plain round (just knit, slipping markers). This every-other-round rhythm makes the yoke grow at the right angle, roughly matching the slope of your shoulders.
Some patterns also add a few extra rounds or increase only on the body or sleeves at times. Always follow your pattern’s specific instructions.
A Typical Raglan Increase Round
Many patterns write it like this:
Increase round: *Knit to 1 stitch before marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end.
In plain words: you leave one knit stitch on each side of the marker, and the increases sit just outside those stitches. Those knit stitches form the neat raglan “line” you see on finished sweaters.
Other patterns put the increases right beside the marker with no line stitch, or use a 2-stitch line. The method is the same: increase on both sides of every marker.
Three Ways to Make a Raglan Increase
Method 1: Make 1 Left and Make 1 Right (M1L and M1R)
These are the most common raglan increases. They’re nearly invisible and lean in opposite directions, which makes the raglan line look like a mirror image on both sides.
Step 1 (M1R, before the marker): With your left needle, lift the horizontal strand between the stitches from back to front. Knit it through the front loop. This leans right.
Step 2 (M1L, after the marker): With your left needle, lift the strand from front to back. Knit it through the back loop. This leans left.
The twist in each lifted strand is what keeps a hole from forming. If you knit it the “wrong” way, you’ll get a small hole.
Method 2: Yarn Over (YO)
A yarn over makes a small, deliberate eyelet on each side of the line. It’s a pretty, lacy look often used on baby sweaters.
Step 1: Bring the yarn to the front between the needles.
Step 2: Knit the next stitch. The yarn wraps over the needle, making a new loop.
Step 3: On the next round, knit the yarn over like a normal stitch.
Method 3: Knit Front and Back (KFB)
KFB is easy for beginners because there is no strand to find.
Step 1: Knit into the stitch, but don’t slide it off the left needle.
Step 2: Knit into the back loop of the same stitch, then slide it off.
KFB leaves a little purl bump on the right side, so the line looks a bit textured. Some knitters like that, others prefer M1L and M1R.
| Increase | Look | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| M1L / M1R | Smooth, nearly invisible | Most adult raglan sweaters |
| Yarn over | Row of small eyelets | Baby cardigans, decorative yokes |
| KFB | Small purl bump beside the line | Beginners, textured or rustic looks |
Step-by-Step: Your First Raglan Yoke Rounds
Step 1: Cast on the stitches your pattern gives and join in the round without twisting.
Step 2: Work the neckband (often a few rounds of rib).
Step 3: Place the markers as your pattern tells you, using the odd-colored one for the beginning of the round.
Step 4: Work the increase round, adding a stitch before and after each marker.
Step 5: Work a plain round. Knit all stitches and slip markers.
Step 6: Count your stitches. You should have exactly 8 more than before the increase round. Check each section too: each sleeve and each body section should have grown by 2.
Step 7: Repeat the increase round and plain round until you reach the stitch count your pattern gives for your size.
Keeping Track of Your Rounds
Raglan yokes can involve 20 to 40 increase rounds, so it’s easy to lose your place. Two simple tricks help:
- Read your knitting. On a plain round, the stitch right after an M1 looks like a little twisted stitch. If you see it just below your needle, you just did an increase round.
- Clip a locking marker every 10 increase rounds. Then you only need to count the rounds since the last clip.
Try It on as You Go
One of the best things about a top-down raglan is that you can try it on. Slip the yoke onto a long piece of scrap yarn or a longer cable, and pull it over your head. The raglan lines should reach your armpit when the yoke is the right depth. If it’s short, keep going. Your pattern’s measurements are the guide, but your body is the final word.
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
- Holes beside the increases. You probably knit the lifted strand without twisting it. Lift it the correct direction for M1L or M1R, or tighten your tension on the next stitch.
- Forgetting an increase at one marker. Count after every increase round. If one section is short, you can add the missing stitch on the next plain round with a single M1 in the right spot.
- Lines that lean the wrong way. Your M1L and M1R are swapped. The line won’t hurt the fit, but for a mirrored look, switch them.
- Increasing every round by accident. The yoke will flare and get too wide too fast. Rip back to the last correct round and use a row counter.
- Losing the beginning of the round. Use a marker in a different color for the start, and never move it unless the pattern says so.
Tips
- Practice raglan increases on a baby sweater. It’s quick and you’ll see the whole yoke in a weekend.
- Choose a light, smooth yarn for your first yoke so your increases are easy to see.
- Count your stitches after every increase round. It takes 30 seconds and saves hours of ripping.
- Write a tally mark for each increase round in your pattern margin.
- When you’re ready, try the free Flax pattern by Tin Can Knits on Ravelry. It’s a top-down, seamless raglan pullover sized from babies to adults.
FAQ
How many stitches does a raglan increase round add?
In a standard raglan, you increase on both sides of all four markers, so 8 stitches are added each increase round. Some patterns change that rate for certain sizes or sections, so check your instructions.
Which raglan increase is best for beginners?
KFB is the easiest because there is no strand to pick up. But M1L and M1R give the cleanest look, and once you know which way to lift the strand, they’re just as quick.
Why do raglan increases happen every other round?
Increasing every other round makes the yoke grow at an angle that matches most shoulders. Increasing every round makes the yoke flare out too fast, and the sweater would be too wide at the neck and shoulders.
Once your four raglan lines start to show, you’ll see the whole sweater taking shape right on your needles.